Jack’s Gems & Jewelry

 

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                   ??Frequently Asked Questions??

If you can’t find the answer to your Question on this page just click on contact and send your question(s) and I will be happy to respond with an answer.

Why do you use Gold-filled Wire and not solid gold wire? - The main reason I use Gold-filled Wire is cost. The price of solid gold is approximately 10 times (or more) more expensive than gold-filled, depending on the gauge, style, shape and the manufacturing cost.

What is Gold-filled - It is a layer of gold 10KT or better mechanically bonded under heat and pressure on one or more surfaces of supporting base material (usually brass), Then rolled or drawn to a given thickness or gage.

In the jewelry industry the quantity of gold must be at least 1/20th (5%) by weight of the total product. Under FTC (Federal Trade Commission) regulations, a product may be marked or tagged as 14, 12, or 10KT Gold-filled. Karat measurement of gold content MUST be part of the marking or designation.

(Be ware of items offered as simply "Gold-filled" rather than 14KT Gold-filled or 10 or 12KT Gold-filled when trying to compare prices!)

The finished product thus has a surface layer of gold of the appropriate karate, which is very thick compared to gold plate or the very heaviest electroplated material.

The above standards are the minimum, so you might find jewelry labeled as 14/20GF or even 14/10GF to denote 1/20 14KT Gold-filled or 1/10 14KT Gold-filled.

Gold-filled jewelry items are considered LIFETIME products, and the gold layer will not quickly wear off, as it does with gold plated jewelry.

What is Rolled Gold Plate? - It is made the same way as the Gold-filled material, but with a lower gold content. The minimum standard is 1/40th the total weight of the product must be the appropriate karatage gold. Thus a product marked 14K RGP is 1/40th (2.5%) 14K gold by weight.

Do you do special orders? - Yes, I will work with you by phone or e-mail to develop a design that will fit your needs and desires. Just let me know what you want: Wire Jewelry, Traditional Jewelry, Faceted Stones, Designer Cabochons. If you think of it I will work with you to make it. “Your wish is my command”.

What is the GIA Color Stone Grading System? - This is the Gem Institute of America's colored stone grading system. The GIA gemologists are still working and modifying this system. This is the system being used by GIA gemologists and some others in the gemstone industry. If you buy GIA certified stones, chances are you will encounter this system.

Read the clarity definitions between the three "type categories" very carefully, they are different even though the clarity letters are the same (VS, VVS, SI1...). Notice that there are different "Types" for the same families of gemstones. For Example, Tourmaline is in several "Types"... Note: That the GIA system does not have an "IF" clarity grade for colored gemstones. By not having an "IF" category they are lowering the grade of all colored gemstones... The GIA”s argument is that by looking in a microscope they can always find a spot (crystal growth, included crystal... whatever) if they look long enough. This is true of any gemstone if you look long enough and with enough magnification... However, there are some gemstones that are exceptional and they need to be graded that way. Not lumped in with everything else and graded a lower clarity grade, when they really are exceptional. I do not like this system and think it is confusing... It is just not a very clear way to grade gem stones. However this is the system being used commercially, so I have posted it for informational purposes. Read through it and draw your own conclusions...

Type I - Gemstones

Beryl
Aquamarine
Green
Morganite
Yellow

Chrysoberyl
Green
Yellow

Quartz
Smokey

Spodumene
Kunzite
Green

Topaz
Blue
Yellow
Orange
Pink
Red

Tourmaline
Green

Zircon
Blue

Zoisite
Tanzanite

 

Type I - Clarity

VVS - Very, Very Slightly Included (the best)
Minute inclusions that are difficult to see
using 10X, and are not visible at all to the
naked eye.

VS - Very Slightly Included Minor inclusions
that are easier to see using 10X, but still not
visible to the naked eye.

SI1 - Slightly Included I The inclusions are
easily seen using 10X, and are noticeable with
the naked eye.

SI2 - Slightly Included 2 The inclusions are
more easily seen using 10X, and are quite
visible with the naked eye.

I1 - Included 1 The inclusions are very obvious
and they have a moderate negative effect on the over-all appearance or durability of the
gemstone.

I2 - Included 2 The inclusions are very obvious
and they have a severe negative effect on the
over-all appearance or durability of the
gemstone.

 

 

Type 2- Gemstones

Andalusite - All

Chrysoberyl
Alexandrite

Corundum
All colors (i.e. Sapphire and Ruby)

Garnet - All species and colors

Iolite - All

Peridot - All

Quartz
Amethyst
Citrine
Ametrine

Spinel - All

Tourmaline
Blue
Orange
Yellow
Multicolored (except watermelon color)

Zircon
Green
Orange
Red
Yellow

 

Type 3 - Gemstones

Beryl
Emerald


Tourmaline
Red
Pink
Watermelon (green transitioning to pink or red)

 

Type 2 - Clarity

VVS - Very, Very Slightly Included (the best)
Minor inclusions that are somewhat easy to see using 10X, but still not visible to the naked eye.

VS - Very Slightly Included Noticeable
inclusions that are easier to see using 10X,
and may be slightly visible to the naked eye.

SI1 - Slightly Included I The inclusions are
easily seen using 10X and are large or
numerous, and are noticeable with the naked
eye.

SI2 - Slightly Included 2 The inclusions are
easily seen using 10X and are large or
numerous, and are very noticeable with the
naked eye.

I1 - Included 1 The inclusions are very obvious
and they have a moderate negative effect on the over-all appearance or durability of the
gemstone.

I2 - Included 2 The inclusions are very obvious
and they have a severe negative effect on the
over-all appearance or durability of the
gemstone.

I3 - Included 3 The inclusions are very obvious
and they have a sever negative effect on both
the over-all appearance and durability of the
gemstone.

 

Type 3- Clarity

VVS - Very, Very Slightly Included (the best) Noticeable inclusions that are easy to see using 10X, but usually not visible to the naked eye.
VS - Very Slightly Included Obvious inclusions that are easy to see using 10X, and usually visible to the naked eye. SI1 - Slightly Included I The inclusions are large and numerous using 10X, and prominent with the naked eye.
SI2 - Slightly Included 2 The inclusions are large and numerous using 10X, and very prominent with the naked eye. I1 - Included 1 The inclusions are very obvious and they have a moderate negative effect on the over-all appearance or durability of the gemstone.
I2 - Included 2 The inclusions are very obvious and they have a severe negative effect on the over-all appearance or durability of the gemstone.
I3 - Included 3 The inclusions are very obvious and they have a sever negative effect on both the over-all appearance and durability of the gemstone.
 

 

 

What is the Standard Diamond Clarity Grading System? - There are many different types of stone grading systems available and being used today in the colored stone business. Many of them are arbitrary to each other and confusing to most nonprofessionals, and some of us pros too. For this reason, I have decided to use the standard diamond clarity grading system. This system is probably the one that is most familiar to jewelers, and people in general. I think it is the easiest to use and understand, and frankly makes the most sense, at least to me. One of the best things about this system is that it takes a lot of the ambiguity out of grading for clarity in a gemstone. For example, there are so many different stones being called "eye clean" in the trade that there is no real meaning to the term. This system gives clear specific guidelines, which are easy to use and understand. This system is designed primarily for grading the color and clarity of diamonds. But I will be referring to the clarity (think cleanliness of the stones) part of the grading system, the color grading section of this system (for diamonds) does not apply. The color grading of the colored stone in question (if there is one needed), will be in the description of each individual stone.

Below is the Standard Diamond Clarity Grading System

IF (Internally Flawless) = Free of inclusions under a 10x loupe magnification.

VVS (Very, very small inclusions) = Very few, very small inclusions under 10x loupe magnification, difficult to find.

VS (Very small inclusions) = Some small inclusions recognizable by an expert under 10x Loupe magnification.

SI (Small inclusions) = Several small inclusions easily recognizable under 10x loupe magnification, but not diminishing the brilliance appreciably. This is what could be called "eye clean" but this term is often abused...

P1 (1st Pique) = Inclusions at once recognizable under 10x loupe magnification, but not diminishing the brilliance of the stone appreciably.

P2 (2nd Pique) = Larger and/or many inclusions, slightly diminishing the brilliance, recognizable with the naked eye.

P3 (3rd Pique) = Large and/or many inclusions diminishing the brilliance.

If you have any questions, please Contact Me.

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I use United States Postal service, Priority Mail, to ship your purchase. The postal rate plus insurance is $8.30 up to $100.00. All orders over $100.0 will be shipped free of charge.

 

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